Shamin and the chocolate factory

Say "chocolate" ever so softly and Shamin's interest will instantly be piqued. Unsurprisingly then, a chocolate factory in Bali was very high on her bucket list. And one that has received accolades for being the world's largest commercial structure built sustainably of bamboo would probably have figured on most lists.

After several days of walking in and around the main streets of Ubud, we decided to rent a motorbike and explore the areas outside Ubud. The chocolate factory is owned by Big Tree Farms, an enterprise set up by an American living in Bali for the past 15 years, and is located about 10km southwest of Ubud in the village of Sibang. There aren't any signboards leading you here, but you can travel towards Denpasar, and ask the locals first for Sibang and then the chocolate factory. 

Balinese cooking class

Since I've started enjoying to cook, I have a curious bug to know the ingredients of the dishes I try and learn to cook them. Also, food is a key aspect of any culture, and to understand the culture better, you need to understand its cuisine as well. That led me to sign up for a Balinese cooking class. Mandar was a good sport and followed suit. 

Snakefruits

Bumi Bali restaurant and cooking school is where we enrolled for a half-day program. They picked us up from our homestay at 8.45 am and we headed along with the other participants to the traditional market.

Our chef was called Nyoman, a lively Balinese who has been cooking for 15 years. Nyoman walked us through the fish market, the fruits, vegetables and roots, palm sugar variants, and finally the Balinese spice mixture and different sauces. I was tempted to buy the local ingredients especially the lesser and greater galangal powder, and would have if not for our long travel. The two types of galangals, along with ginger and turmeric are the four main roots used in Balinese cooking. What was interesting was the use of turmeric in the root form, unlike Indian food where we typically use it in powder form. One of the fruits that was new to me was the snakefruit. It has a snake skin texture and colour thus gets its name. I wonder why jackfruit, breadfruit, passionfruit have been named so.

After the educational market visit, it was time to get our hands dirty. We were back at the school eager to see how the different produce and spices came together. An apron on, and a recipe book in hand for us to make notes, the class commenced.

Satay lilit

Our first item was the basic spice mixture or base gede, similar to a paste (something like "vatap" in Goan food); using roots, whole spices, shallots, garlic and fish sauce. This was followed by "sayur urab", the vegetables with grated fresh coconut. This is a typical accompaniment to most dishes in Indonesian food. Next, was the big dish - the chicken curry or the opor ayam. It was a fragrant and fairly easy recipe once you had you base gede ready. While the chicken was being cooked, we tried the fancy Balinese satay lilit. This was the fun recipe. We had to roll minced meat around lemongrass and wood sticks and getting the technique right wasn't easy. Nevertheless, lots of fun. The final recipe was fried bananas, which were served with a slice of orange and some palm sugar. We gobbled the food instantly. Time well spent. 

O'er vales and hills

"I wandered lonely as a cloud

That floats on high o'er vales and hills"

Walking in Ubud area with its enchanting discoveries, peaceful setting, pleasant weather and godly aura is a pleasure so intense, that could inspire a lesser soul to follow Wordsworth's footsteps.

We decided to do one of the Lonely Planet suggested walking trails of the Sayan valley and Ayung river. We set out at 7.15 am after a hearty breakfast of fruits and egg toast. As we walked along Ubud centre, we witnessed the Saturday street market - first unexpected discovery. The streets were buzzing akin to any local market street. Coconuts, especially orange ones and roosters were omnipresent.

We walked over the Djampuan (It still retains the Dutch spelling of "dj" for "ch") bridge to enter Penestanan, which is the artists' village of Ubud. Even if one wasn't aware of that, the graffiti and the art shops are suggestive.

I was fascinated by one particular art shop which said "Danger! ART". I spotted the artist and waved him the "good job" hand signal. After our dive training, hand signals have become second language.

Just as we climbed uphill into the village, the rain God showered his blessing. After a small bargain, I managed to get a poncho from the only shop on that road, which was damn neat. We walked a few blocks further and Mandar realized this water resistant jacket wasn't that resistant at all. So he went back the shop to get a poncho, while I waited by a shop that looked like a taxi hire-cum-shop-cum-homestay. I got chatting with the middle-aged man who was fascinated with my Indian origin. Another reason to visit Bali - Indians are fancied here, especially if you are a Hindu you get additional brownie points. The reason being, in a Muslim dominated country, Bali is the only Hindu area, and Hindu tourists are rare.

Breakfast at Praety's

Have you ever had a fruit plate that looked like a floral mountain with snow covered peak? Well, Praety went the extra mile to do just that. We stayed our first night in Ubud at her homestay. Not only is the family humble and helpful, they make the best breakfast on Jalan Sukma. Along with fruits, we had banana pancake (made with fresh palm sugar) and vegetable omelette. Truly sumptuous!

The property is traditional and beautiful. The Lord Ganesha idol in the compound further enhances the peace quotient. Our room was small, yet clean and furnished with wood carved interiors. There was no availability; which eventually turned out to be a boon for us, since Puri Asri 2 where we are staying presently is paradise found.

Praety Homestay

Doggone it!

For a place that is renowned for taking great care of everyone, it is disheartening to see scores of rabid-looking dogs in the city. I didn't take notice at first, but when they were at every corner in Ubud, I realized there must be bigger issues at play here. 

From what little I have read on this issue so far (notably here), it does seem to be a systemic problem. Money, neglect, religious beliefs and lack of education have created a dangerous concoction for the once-affable canines. Several non-profit organizations have sprung up in Ubud and other parts of Bali, and are genuinely making a difference. It's easy to point at a problem and discuss it at length, but it's really hard being part of the solution. I hope to visit at least one such NPO during the remainder of our stay here, and contribute to their efforts in a small way.   

Roosters go bananas

Saw this sight on our early morning walk to the Ubud market today; the picture says it all.

Mamma Mia

"If you don't like it, don't pay for it. And if you really don't like it, I'll give you an additional dollar."

When we stopped by this quaint-looking pizza and pasta place called Mamma Mia on Jalan Hanoman to check out their menu, Tony (the owner) came out to greet us and made an offer we couldn't refuse. He's an Italian, and perhaps takes The Godfather more seriously than others.

Over-confidence? Maybe, maybe not. Unfounded? Definitely not.

For the most part, Tony was busy entertaining a woman, who seemed to be a food reviewer, with Italian anecdotes and a variety of morsels from the kitchen. The chef was baking pizzas in a traditional wood oven and we were really tempted to order one, but we chose a couple of spaghetti pastas instead, and bookmarked the pizza for a future visit. 

The homemade spaghetti were one of the best we've eaten in a long time, the secret sauces adding just the right flavor. We were so busy relishing the pasta that we missed several of Tony's anecdotes, but I'm sure he didn't mind. In fact, he was quite pleased, and decided to offer complimentary limoncello shots. What a great way to round up lunch! 

The picture here was taken the following day, on our way to an early morning Sayan valley walking tour, and even though Mamma Mia hadn't opened for the day, the logs of wood reminded us of the pending pizza visit.

The turtle and the gecko

That the Lonely Planet publication on Bali and Lombok has been helpful to us would be an understatement. It has been a steady companion on this trip, and while we have trusted local verdicts and our instinct, LP has often nudged us in the right direction when we've been flooded with options.

One such nugget we discovered amongst the plethora of attractions in Ubud is the Pondok Kekak Library & Learning Centre. Located next to a football field off Jalan Dewi Sita, this centre offers painting, dance, music, jewellery-making, language and wood carving courses. Access to the library is available for members, and a few books are also on sale. The reading area is pleasant, though located near the area where the courses are being taught, and can be a bit noisy at times. There is a small cafe outside the library for light meals too. One of the highlights of this place is that it offers refillable drinking water at nominal prices, helping in Bali's endeavour to reduce the plastic waste around.

The other highlights are the excellent courses it offers for beginners. We were fascinated with the wood carving course and, for Rp 200,000 per person for a three-hour course that provides the wood and other equipment, thought it was a bargain. And regardless of how it turns out, you get to keep what you make! The Balinese masks looked the most intriguing, but usually require 3-5 sessions for beginners, so we decided to stick with something simpler. Shamin chose the turtle, I went for the gecko.

Our instructor was helpful, explaining the right way to chisel off the wood, and occasionally stopping us when we used too much force or chiseled in the wrong direction. It was hard work, every blow making us appreciate the effort that went into professional wood carvings that much more. Our backs and arms were not ready for this, and they yearned for a break with every passing hour. We kept our zealousness in check for four hours though, an hour longer than we initially thought, and ensured both our pets had their heads and limbs intact at the end. The results were very satisfying, and while our masterpieces may not fetch a premium at Christie's, they were a priceless memory for us. 

Now she's here, now she's gone

Have you ever seen an entire duck devoured inside a minute? I witnessed it at Bebek Tepi Sawah, Ubud yesterday. What a fine grilled duck... Poof!

The rooster from Jalan Sukma

There once was a rooster named Mr Bo

And all day long he ever only did crow

No matter t'was dawn, no matter t'was night

No matter he was mating, or in a fight

Crowing steeped his honour, he truly believed so

Looking for some quiet, a man came nigh

He walked to Mr Bo, and looked into his eye

You will give me peace, you will give me quiet

Else you'll be my dinner, I'll be hungry tonight

Mr Bo clucked and crowed, laughed forever till I die

A lazy day in Ubud

Lazy days don't get any lazier than this. The day started with a simple breakfast consisting of banana pancakes, fruits and coffee served at our cottage. Set amidst lush green gardens, all we hear from our cottage is the chirping of birds, the gentle swoosh of the breeze, and a rooster decidedly bent on ruining his throat. The only thing that beats this experience is diving at Gili islands last week.

It's well into the afternoon now, and I've only left our porch for lunch at Mama's Warung. I struggled with Blogger templates for a fair bit of time today, and that has been the only blotch on an otherwise awesome, lazy Thursday. Ubud is turning out to be a great decision so far, and I won't be surprised if we continue here for the rest of our time in Bali.

A little extra at Mama's Warung

When you ask several locals for a place to eat, and you get the same answer, either just that one place exists, or it is so lipsmacking good that you are a fool to skip it. Mama's Warung at Jalan Sukma, Ubud is positively the latter.

Mama's Warung is just a short walk away from our homestay, and we decide to check it out for lunch today. It's a small, quaint place with 3-4 small tables. We seat ourselves at the one facing the roadside, and soon a middle-aged woman approaches us. "Are you mama?" Shamin asks her. "No, I'm step-mama" comes the reply. A bit amused, we look at her menu. She has a bit of variety in there, but we settle for the must have - the national dish of course - nasi campur. We also order orange and coconut juices to go with the food.

 Shamin has had a long, eventful morning while I've lazed away, and she recounts her experiences while we await our food. Soon, the lady comes with the juices - one and a half glass each. We look at her, and she just smiles back "A little extra for you". We have dined at hundreds of places before, but this is truly a first. The food comes shortly after. Elegantly put together, the nasi campur makes us wonder why we even bother to try anything else in Bali. 

For the next few minutes, Shamin and I gobble the food without a word, occasionally looking up with a grin, each thinking the same - wow. This is the third time we've had a fantastic nasi campur meal, the first being Warung Muslim at Gili Air followed by Gula Bali at Ubud. When we ask for the bill, we get a surprise. "Is that it?" we ask, happily knowing the answer, and knowing this isn't the last time we see step-mama.

Suryanamaskar

Today has been one of the nicest days of the trip for me. I woke up at 6.15 am, which is really early for my standard. It's always been rush mornings trying to multitask while getting late for work the past few years in Singapore. Guess, its the Ubud magic now. Ubud is enchanting, a retreat in itself. I did yoga after a very long time. The fresh air and the suryanamaskars got me going. 

An early morning walk, I think, is one of the best ways to experience the local life. So I set out to observe simple nothings on Jalan Sukma. The family has already decorated the door steps with fresh flowers, I got to know later that they wake up at 5.00 am. Outside stands an overpowering red jeep, which just seemed out of place on the modest street.

Every house is a temple here, there is no difference. A temple is a spiritual place, place of the Gods, same goes for every home here. It looks and feels the part. I decided to pick my favourite house, by looking at the gate. The gates themselves have a personality of their own. The house with the wild boar is my pick.  I think its a wild boar, I'm not sure though. But, it was striking.

My favourite five in Gili Air

Gili Air is pristine, like a postcard with aqua, deep blue and green waters, and non-touristy. The only form of transportation on the island is horse carriages and bicycles. We had done a day trip to the Gilis (Trawangan and Meno) when we visited Sengigi in Lombok, two years back. I remember telling Mandar, I wish I could come back to this paradise and stay longer. Wishes do come true.

We selected Gili Air over the other two Gili islands since it is balanced, unlike the very touristy Gili Trawangan or the really quiet Gili Meno. It was a great choice.

The best Nasi Campur you'll ever eat

Remember this name - Warung Muslim. And don't leave Gili Air if you haven't eaten here at least once. Or maybe thrice.

During the lunch break on the first day of our diving course at Manta Dive Gili Air, we saw the instructors getting their lunch packets and gobbling them up in record time. The food looked simple from a distance - rice, meat, vegetables and crackers - and yet everyone was having it. We were too involved with our diving lessons that day, and we didn't really make much of it. Only when our course completed, and we were celebrating the achievement with our instructors, did we remember to ask them "What is it that you guys eat for lunch?". They looked at us incredulously "You don't know about Warung Muslim???". Sheepishly, we shook our heads and fessed our ignorance. That invoked a short Oscar-worthy performance from our instructor. I can't describe it in words, but suffice to say, our only response was "Is it open now? Please say yes". Sadly, of course, the answer was no. So we promised ourselves a lunch date the following day. 

And Warung Muslim did not disappoint. We followed a narrow lane from the beachside close to Manta Dive, crossed Omah Gili, and reached a very small joint on the way to the village. Just one table adorned the place. Nobody makaans (eat-here) here, it's all bungus (take-away). And so we did too. A little bit of this, and a little bit of that, to assemble the most perfect nasi campur in a parcel. And we added some rice crackers for good measure. All for a measly sum of money. 

We couldn't wait to get home. In traditional Indonesian style, we sat cross-legged on the floor, savoured the multitude of smells as we opened the parcel, and devoured the food with our hands. The taste was so alluring, we made this our staple lunch for the next few days, and vowed to be back for more. 

This break was meant to cross out my bucket list items, but more seem to be getting get added instead.

Buffalo soldier

We are out for lunch at this funky Bob Marley and Beatles inspired, Warung Beach Breeze, a short walk from our hostel. It's a bright and windy day. We have ordered a pot of lemon tea, detoxing and resisting the temptation for Bintang beer. Bintang is the equivalent of Tiger, Singapore. I got to know that it means "star" in Bahasa. I quite like the word "bintang", it resonates well.  There is lively Bob Marley painting of the wall, I keep staring at it. It's blue and full of life. I like the way the currency notes blend with the caricature. Bob Marley, even after his death is able to live it up! And yeah, Buffalo Soldier tops the chart most places here.

Jack's Place at Sanur Beach

For long, I've been chided as the only Goan who didn't eat fried or grilled fish. Beware people, that is changing now. And don't say I didn't warn you ;)

The crude Sanur beach map given to us had a few restaurants and beach shacks highlighted, well, rather crudely. Over the years, we've come to trust these little nuggets more than the famous, published ones, and so we stepped into Jack's Place along the Sanur beach. They specialize in seafood, and it really is foolish to order anything else. We asked for a grilled mahi-mahi fillet and a whole snapper, along with some rice and urab (vegetables). The photo here only does part justice to how good the snapper looked, and no justice to how good it tasted. And all for an extremely reasonable price. We've bookmarked this place for our next Sanur visit - you should too.

Breaking bad

And it actually begins...we reach Bali in the afternoon from Singapore. Cab from the airport takes us to "Big Pineapple"  hostel in Sanur. This is the same hostel Mandar broke bad at. Big Pineapple is a chilled-out place, buzzing with backpackers who are hanging out by the pool, on the couch, sharing travel stories and travel tips. Most of them are Europeans (expected, yeah) on a south-east Asia trip. One of the stories I hear, is how weird Singapore is as a city, how it has so many rules and you can't get cigarettes in, the girl says, "What can I tell you I was there for a day and the city is just weird". I really want to tell her that she needs to look beyond the cover of rules and fines, to see how much Singapore has to offer. And yes, it can't be experienced in one day. But, I keep to myself since I'm just low on energy after all the pre-trip madness. So I laze at the hostel, start a book called "Eats shoots and leaves", and chill by the pool in the evening glory. Its finally happening!

The tipping point

Bali. February 2013. When I look back several years hence, that will be where it all started.

For several months, I've had an urge to take a break from work, from the daily routine, from the technology overload, from the constant de-prioritization of things I want to do most, and to do all those things that have been sitting impatiently in my bucket list. I've talked about it fleetingly with Shamin, usually after I've read an inspiring blog post by someone who had the courage to do it. But that c-word took a long time finding my doorstep.

I'm not that old really *snigger snigger*. I've had a good work life too, with a culture that few enjoy, and the myriad interactions with people across four different cities have fueled my passion and kept me going. But the ten years I'm going to complete with my employer this July seemed like an eternity, and the routine finally took its toll. 

Circa Bali. The tipping point. My employer was observing a week-long, mandatory Chinese New Year break, and my wife was travelling to India for a good friend's wedding, so I took the opportunity to spend some quality time in Bali...doing nothing. A close friend was in a similar situation, minus the wife bit as he was single, and decided to join me on the trip. We decided to experience the backpackers life, and booked dorm beds in a hostel at Sanur. The trip turned out to be very eventful - we made good friends at the hostel, learned new drinking games, took night outs on the town, zipped around Bali on bikes, and even took a beginners course in surfing. That last experience in particular was mind-blowing, and deserves a dedicated post, so I'll skip any details here. During all the late-night dinner table discussions and debates, one thing became painfully clear - we were the two oldest people at the hostel! And then it hit me - the best time to take a break from the monotony and truly experience life was actually gone. All I was left with were meetings to attend, Facebook posts to like, a social ladder to climb, and weekend holidays which I hopelessly hoped would never end. 

Many years ago, I'd come across a saying that had caught my attention "When you're on your deathbed, and look back at your life, you'll regret the things you didn't do more than the ones you did". That statement rang loud in my ears, and I had to make a decision. There are times when you look before you jump, and then there are times when you take a leap of faith. I just jumped, and I know I won't ever regret it.