Sunday, August 25, 2013

Flamenco at Las Tablas

A flamenco performance was high on our list the moment we stepped into Madrid and, after some quick research on travel forums, decided on Las Tablas near Plaza de Espana. We had dinner leisurely near the Opera metro before the show, and chose the 27 show plus drink option instead. Las Tablas has a small, intimate setting, and was quite perfect for our first flamenco experience. And thanks to our prior reservation, we got good seats when we arrived. 
A throaty singer kickstarted the show, and there was another solo guitar performance before the flamenco actually started. We had an inkling of what to expect, but the electric performance by Lucia de Miguel and Jesus Fernandez blew us away. Both performers had their own unique styles, and captivated the audience with energetic yet graceful moves. Throughout the performance, the performers elicited encouragement from the audience, who in turn were more than glad to oblige. The show went on for just over an hour, and was well worth the money we'd spent. 

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Step up to the streets

Street performances are not an uncommon sight around the world these days. Every town, every performance has its own quirks and, more often than not, you'll find yourself clapping your hands and tapping your feet to the wonderful sounds of music. Just as we were crossing Plaza Mayor into the streets of La Latina today, we saw a group of women put on a simple yet foot-tapping performance. We were enthralled for a good half-hour and, though we didn't capture their entire performance, the smiles on their beautiful faces shows just how much they enjoyed that dance.

Friday, August 23, 2013

Chocolate con churros...a sweet sweet sin

Chocolateria San Gines, a cafe close to the Iglesia de San Gines church in central Madrid (and happily just around the corner from our hotel in Calle Arenal), has been serving chocolate con churros since 1894. If you are in Madrid even for a day, do not miss out on this amazing hot chocolate and deep friend dough combination. It has been highly recommended on almost all travel forums, and for good reason.

Sobrino de Botin - the oldest restaurant in the world

On our walking tour of Madrid, we came across Restaurante Sobrino de Botin, located on calle Cuchilleros just behind Plaza Mayor. Europe has its fair share of nice-looking restaurants, and we would have walked right passed this one if it weren't for our tour guide. She made us stop and look at the certificate proudly displayed on their window - "the oldest restaurant in the world", as certified by the Guinness World Records. Of course, that instantly made it a photo opportunity! 

Sobrino de Botin was established in 1725, and is famous for their specialty of cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig). Apparently, it is also mentioned in one of Ernest Hemingway's novels The Sun Also Rises, but I haven't gotten around to verifying that just yet. We didn't get to dine at Botin on this trip, but have added it to our long list of reasons to visit Europe again.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

The liqueur we never had...

El oso y el madrono - the bear and the strawberry tree - is an ubiquitous symbol in Madrid. You see it everywhere - city crests, public transport infrastructure, buildings, pavements, man-hole covers, just about everywhere really. The fruit of this tree is distilled into madrono, a sweet liqueur, which interestingly is as difficult to find in Madrid as it is easy to spot the madrono tree itself. 
On our walking tour of Madrid, our tour guide explained the significance of this liqueur, and brought us to a place where the liqueur is most popular. Sadly for us though, in true Spanish holiday fervor, this place had closed shop for the period of August, and the owners had gone far away from the maddening crowd. Madrono liqueur is served in edible chocolate glasses here, and together they make sure your sugar levels aren't dropping anytime soon. We did look for the liqueur in several places around Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor over the next few days, but were mostly just greeted by looks of surprise by Madrilenos, many of whom had heard about the liqueur for the first time from us! Madrid wasn't really my favorite Spanish city on this visit, but perhaps this gives me a reason to come back some day - unfinished business as they say.

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Le Mont St Michel : 50 shades of grandiose!

The Mont St Michel in Normandy is sheer grandiose, remarkably grey and sits imposing on a tidal island. The pictures don't do justice to the actual sight. It's is a reaction of such awe and admiration once you get the first view of the ancient monastery dedicated to the archangel Saint Michel, which was built before the year 1000.
The tides create a palette of different shades of blue and brown that complement with the grey of this Gallo-Roman structure.
The Mont visit is very well-organised - a guided map with information you receive along with your ticket as well as free bus from the public transport terminal/car park that takes you up close to the Mont. It's about ten minutes ride or you could choose to walk it for about 40 minutes. We took the ride after a  train journey from Paris to Rennes (2.5 hours) and a Keolis bus from Rennes to the Mont (1 hour).

The abbey, which is the highlight of the Mont is striking in the architecture of its cloister. The cloister, with its arches and cool ambience is the first thing I remember when I recollect the visit. The other highlights of the abbey  are the church, the vaults, the monk's ossuary (burial space, which was converted to prison cells during the wars, the crypt, and the monk's refectory (dining room), and the almonry (where alms were distributed). Also, the small village with its winding streets lined with restaurants around the abbey is fascinating.

This has been my first visit to a Christian monastery and a fascinating one for sure.
The cloister

Les jardins

I remember reading about Jardins des Tuileries and Jardin du Luxembourg in my French textbooks. Visiting both these gardens has been a pleasant experience. Infact, I have realised now that visiting a garden and watching locals and tourists while grabbing a bite and relaxing your feet after a lot of sightseeing, is a great thing to do. The gardens, especially in Paris were a visual delight, not just for their beauty but also for the various experiences you could have there - free shows, locals playing a game of chess, children playing with boats, music in the background from one of the many street musicians, pet dogs and their masters enjoying the sun and book lovers, writers and painters doing their thing. It's nice to sit and watch sometimes.

Shakespeare and company


My best find in Paris would have to be this cute bookstore aptly titled "Shakespeare and company". Bookstores fascinate me most times, but this one in particular delighted me. Books I had never seen before on display, books in not only in French but also in English were a huge draw. But it wasn't just about the books, it was the warmth you felt inside, the excitement of titles and authors, the way the bookstore looked, the sayings outside, the really old lady browsing so engrossed, the way the books were arranged, it felt so welcoming. I picked up an Ernest Hemingway book on his life in Paris, the bookstore was part of the cover, and Hemingway mentions this bookstore in one of his chapters which I got to know only now, that I'm reading the book. The book is called "Paris est une fete", in French, and its English title is "A moveable feast". Few days in Paris and I can understand why Hemingway would have called Paris a moveable feast - the city is a celebration, full of life in the form of art, music, food, wine, books, language, and love and it stayed with him wherever he went in the world.


Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Iamsterdam


Bikes, babes and beer
Gay pride and cheer
Truffles, canals, windmills
Iamsterdam this feels


Thursday, August 1, 2013

Want to lose your sanity for a day? Fly Air India

The day started with a hopeful wish - hope Air India does not screw us again. And it ended with a determined pledge - never again will we fly with them. In between was just a humble lesson in losing and finding our sanity.

After a great start to our break with Bali, our spirits were high and we were looking forward to our Euro trip. We left for the airport fairly on time, and completed the formalities with enough time to spare. We were going to miss Singapore kopi dearly in the next few months, so we stopped at Killiney to whet our kopi-desire. When we reached the boarding gate, it was a relief to see the incoming Air India flight already there. We smiled, little knowing that would be the last one for the day.

Boarding for Frankfurt started, and everyone got seated quickly for takeoff. And then we waited for the ATC clearance. And waited. And waited some more. After an hour past the original departure time, we finally took off. We were to have a fairly short transit (an hour and half) at Delhi, but had been assured by Air India customer service executives before booking the tickets that it was an Air India connection, and we had nothing to worry about. That was the first in a series of lies we were to hear from them. Still, the delay got us concerned and we approached the cabin crew about our situation. They assured us that our situation was quite normal and that the connecting flight would wait for us. In fact, just before landing, they even got back to us with a confirmation from the ground staff that the aircraft was indeed waiting for us. That was the second lie, and said with the conviction and calm of trained liars.

Upon arrival, we realized we weren't the only ones in this situation. There were several others going to Frankfurt, a few to London and Paris, and one to Chicago. All brought together by Air India to witness their flight management finesse and i-care-a-damn-about-you attitude first hand. We were taken to the international transfers area, where the team lead gathered us and said "Your flight has left. I'm going to put you on the next one, same time tomorrow". No one saw it coming, and it was evident from our faces. Several were going home after a long time, with loved ones waiting eagerly, and could just not believe the utterly apathetic attitude of the ground staff. Our angry queries were just met by "This is not new, it happens to everyone. We can't do anything about it" responses. As infuriating as it was, we tried to keep calm and looked for the best and quickest way out. At no point did it ever feel that anyone really cared about our plight - the ground staff were busy chatting among themselves even as weary travelers waited to hear from them.  To make matters worse, as we were in the transit area, there was no easy internet connectivity, no phone facility, no food or drinks around, and it was very difficult to make alternate plans without knowing the options. It was very evident that the Air India staff just wanted to take the easy way out - the most emblematic of this attitude was their "manager" who, with a phone constantly to his ears, had a typical loudmouthed bureaucratic that we've come to detest, and sadly only found in India.

After a lot of pushing and a few choice words, we finally got ourselves on a late evening Delhi - Abu Dhabi - Frankfurt connection. What was a direct flight turned into a one-stop journey. Or did it? None of the staff bothered to point out that the flight path actually included a halt at Bahrain enroute to Abu Dhabi. Neither did our boarding passes give us any hint. It only became evident when we boarded the plane, and the announcement stated Bahrain as the next destination. This conveniently ignored fact caused a fellow passenger to get up in arms, and caused another half hour delay in the process. Security had to be brought in, and even though the passenger may have overreacted, he was not in the wrong. We were equally appalled, but just didn't have the energy to put up another fight. And so we held on to our sanity. The Air India personnel seemed to be enjoying this whole debacle - after putting us through this, they alloted the worst possible seats on the airplane to our fellow passengers. 

After an hour halt in Bahrain, we took off for Abu Dhabi, to continue on a Etihad connection. This was probably the best thing to happen after all the madness. The Etihad customer service was very helpful; in fact, once they heard our plight, they offered an excellent meal voucher and internet access to keep us occupied while we waited for our flight. Of course, Air India wasn't done with us though. While we had dinner, Etihad personnel approached us stating that Air India never really confirmed our tickets on the Etihad connection, and they would try their best to accommodate us. Luckily, they did have just enough seats to get us all on the same flight. We had come to expect this, and though we had some nervous moments, this did not really surprise us anymore. I've had bad experiences with United airlines and some others before, but this is really the worst of them all. It is really shameful that our premier national airline is such a pathetic mess, and our tax money is just getting flushed down the drain (and probably lining somebody's pockets). 

If you've had the patience to read through this, here's the simple conclusion - if you value your safety and sanity, do not ever take an Air India flight. They do not deserve to fly.